HELPS CONTROL:
- Fine lines and wrinkles
- Acne Scarring
- Inflammation from acne
- Large pores
- Stretch marks
- Uneven texture
- Photoaging of the skin
PRICE RANGE: Treatments range depending on bran, specific product used, and strength of treatment. Typically from $10 to $400.
AVERAGE DOWNTIME: No downtime; however, some patients may experience mild peeling and redness as the skin takes time to adjust to the treatment formula.
RETINOID TREATMENT OVERVIEW
WHAT IT DOES: Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from vitamin A that have proven, measurable effects on the skin. Although different forms of retinoids function uniquely, as a group, they have been shown to address abnormal follicular keratinization, regulate cellular turnover, stimulate collagen production, reduce inflammation, enhance fibroblast activity, and prevent collagen loss. Retinoids are among the most extensively studied compounds in dermatology, with clinical research on topical retinoids dating back to the 1960s. The FDA has approved retinoids for the treatment of acne and signs of photoaging. Ongoing research, both on retinoids alone and in combination with other treatments, suggests potential future applications for retinoids in treating additional dermatological conditions.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW: While vitamin A is essential for many bodily functions, excessive intake during pregnancy can be harmful. High levels of vitamin A have been clearly linked to impaired embryonic development and an increased risk of birth defects. This is why strict regulations and mandatory birth control are required for internal vitamin A therapies, such as isotretinoin (commonly known as Accutane®).
For topical sources of vitamin A, such as prescription creams containing tretinoin or dermocosmetic retinoid creams and serums, there is still uncertainty about whether these retinoids can be absorbed into the bloodstream. Due to ethical concerns, no studies exist on the effects of topical vitamin A in pregnant women. Therefore, it is essential to consult with a healthcare professional before using any retinoid products during pregnancy or nursing.
RETINOID FAQS
Is Vitamin A the same as retinol?
Retinol is the alcohol form of vitamin A, as indicated by the "-ol" in its name. While it is a form of vitamin A, it is also often used as a synonym for the vitamin itself, which can cause confusion. The key point to remember about retinoids is that all forms of vitamin A must be converted by the body into retinoic acid, the most active form, to be effective. The number of conversion steps required to reach retinoic acid determines a retinoid’s potency.
For example, prescription retinoids like tretinoin are already in the active retinoic acid form, which explains their stronger action on the skin. Retinol, however, undergoes two conversion steps in the skin before becoming retinoic acid, making it less irritating. Even gentler are vitamin A esters such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, and retinyl linoleate, all of which require a three-step conversion process.
It's also important to consider the formulation of a skincare product when judging its efficacy. A product with a high percentage of retinol may not be as "strong" on the skin if it lacks effective delivery or stability, whereas a well-formulated product with a lower retinol concentration could be more effective.
What is the difference between retinol and retinoid?
A retinoid is any chemical compound derived from or chemically related to vitamin A that binds to retinoic acid receptors. This class of ingredients includes both prescription and dermocosmetic forms. Retinol, while technically a retinoid, follows a different pathway to become retinoic acid. As indicated by the "-ol" ending, retinol is the alcohol form of vitamin A. When applied topically, retinol is eventually converted into the more active retinoic acid, but it must first undergo two conversion steps in the skin. This slower conversion process reduces its intensity, making retinol one of the more well-tolerated and widely used over-the-counter retinoids for treating wrinkles.
What skincare products should I use with retinol?
Retinol can increase photosensitivity, making the skin more vulnerable to sun damage. For this reason, it is essential to always apply a high-protection, broad-spectrum sunscreen when using retinol products.
What are the side effects of retinoids?
The side effects of retinoids vary depending on the form of vitamin A used and the concentration or activity level of the formula. For example, prescription retinoids, such as creams containing tretinoin, can cause stinging, itching, redness, and excessive dryness. Skin peeling may occur just days after starting a prescription retinoid, which is why dermatologists often recommend mixing it with a moisturizer or using it on a staggered schedule to help the skin adjust.
Dermocosmetic retinoids may cause a range of side effects, from none at all to milder versions of those seen with prescription retinoids. Retinol-based products are generally more potent than those containing only vitamin A esters, such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, or retinyl linoleate. However, since retinol is highly unstable and prone to oxidation, the formulation and packaging are critical to its efficacy. While it’s difficult to judge the quality of a product’s delivery system from the ingredient label alone, it's easy to identify poor packaging that fails to protect the retinoid from oxidation or UV exposure. When choosing retinoid products for wrinkles or acne, look for those in UV-protective tubes or pumps to preserve their potency.
What happens if I stop using retinol?
The short answer is that there are no negative side effects when you stop using retinol. However, the benefits of retinol will fade, and the original skin conditions that led to its use may reappear. For instance, if retinol was used to manage mild breakouts or improve signs of aging, those issues could return once the product is discontinued.
How do I choose a retinoid / retinol?
When using any active skincare product, it's ideal to consult with a skincare professional for an accurate skin assessment. However, if that's not possible, start by selecting a formula suitable for your skin type that contains concentrated forms of vitamin A esters (retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, or retinyl linoleate) or a blend of vitamin A esters with retinol. Initially, use the retinoid product every three nights, gradually increasing the frequency based on your skin's tolerance. After 4-6 months, or once your skin can handle nightly use, you can transition to a stronger retinol product and follow the same slow introduction process. If needed, and with a medical professional's guidance, prescription retinoids can be the next step, introduced gradually to help your skin adjust.
Can you put moisturizer over retinol?
Retinol can be layered with other skincare products to enhance your routine. Applying a moisturizer alongside a retinol product helps combat the dryness that often accompanies retinoid use. For those with sensitive or unaccustomed skin, using a moisturizer as a buffer can be effective—apply the moisturizer first, followed by the retinol or retinoid product. This technique can also be used with prescription retinoids, such as creams containing tretinoin, to help minimize irritation.
What is prescription retinoid called?
Retinol can be layered with other skincare products to enhance your routine. Applying a moisturizer alongside a retinol product helps combat the dryness that often accompanies retinoid use. For those with sensitive or unaccustomed skin, using a moisturizer as a buffer can be effective—apply the moisturizer first, followed by the retinol or retinoid product. This technique can also be used with prescription retinoids, such as creams containing tretinoin, to help minimize irritation.
*Always consult your physician before undergoing any procedure
**Follow all product use instructions and warnings
***If irritation occurs, discontinue use; if irritation persists, consult your physician
